Our first day in Olinda

We arrive in Recife at 10 am and the bus station looks decrepit. A large concrete structure mostly empty and very far out of town. We even wondered if we went down at the right one ? But no, that’s our stop and we got into an uber to Olinda without much issue. 

Instead of staying in Recife, I have decided to stay in the UNESCO village of Olinda which is 7km away from the city. I wanted to experience something more chill, possibly safer as well. 

As soon as we start driving up the hill to the small old village, I think I took the right decision. It’s all cobblestone, small colonial brightly painted houses and so many churches all around. 

We arrive at our accommodation – Alexis found this one. It’s a very nice hostel with a small pool and a charming host. Daniel the owner gives us a lot of tips on what to do and where to listen to traditional orchestras. Olinda is famous for its carnival, it’s one that is the most authentic in Brazil. During the year, the orchestras practice on Sundays and sometimes on Friday at a famous crossroad in the city from 7pm.

Today is Friday, we may hear them. After a quick shower, it’s lunch time and I had noticed a nicer restaurant nearby which is highly rated: oficina de sabores. The famous dish is a pumpkin filled with shrimps in coconut sauce and coconut rice. We order just that, and it’s delicious !

Food coma, a decent but not perfect sleep ends us. We go back to the hostel for a long nap. We emerge around 4:30pm. The sunset super early here! Barely at 5:10 pm  and since we are close to the equator, the night falls down quickly too.

We walk up the hill this village is on, admiring the narrow streets and their beautiful houses. The top is called Alto do Se and has a few panoramic esplanades to admire the sunset. Many small street vendors are selling snacks; tapioca pancakes and acarajé, few plastic tables and chairs are around. We pick one and order a small acarajé with a beer to share and watch the sun set, just like everybody else. It’s quiet, there is a see breeze – we are relaxed. 

After this, we continue down the other side of the hill towards that famous crossroads that our host mentioned. We find a narrow area where everyone has plastic tables and chairs on the tiny sidewalks chit chatting and sitting drinks. One bar is blasting loud latino music. We pick a table far away from the loud bar, but close enough to benefit from the music and lounge there ordering beers and snacks and enjoying further this pleasant evening. 

After a while, we just walk back to the hostel, strolling along the streets. Olinda is safe and is a very chill and pleasant historical village. Tomorrow, we will explore it more.